Tell us a little about yourself: Did you grow up here or did you emigrate from China as a child? How has that affected your childhood & identity?

I was born and raised in the SF Bay Area in California. Growing up in a diverse environment really opened up my eyes to different cultures, especially via food. My childhood food memories span from dim sum, to pho, to burritos, to steak, and so on.

How do you think Chinese cuisine in Houston has evolved alongside different immigration waves?

Being a relative newcomer myself (I moved here in 2018) I can only speak to the scene as I see it now. There seems to have been a good influx of different regional Chinese cuisines, not just the old-school Cantonese/Chinese American ones that are more common in cities. You can find representations of Chinese food styles that range from Sichuan, Uyghur, Mongolian, to Taiwanese. Even Chinese chains like Haidilao and Hui Lau Shan have made their way here in recent years, which is a good indicator of interest in Chinese food in Houston.

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Houston’s Chinese food scene spans Cantonese banquet halls to Sichuan strip-mall gems. Where does your style fit into that lineage?

Agnes and Sherman’s style only loosely fits into this lineage of traditional Chinese cuisine. As an Asian American diner, none of the food that we do is particularly traditional, though it is authentic to my own experiences growing up in California and working in New York. These other great Chinese restaurants you can find in Houston are trying to bring a taste of their specific hometown or region to the dining public, whereas Agnes and Sherman is more on the end of trying to broaden the mainstream view of what American food is and seeing what cross-cultural connections can be made in a city as diverse as Houston.

You and your partner run the restaurant together. How does that partnership shape the food, creatively and culturally?

Lisa and I’s partnership shapes the food in the sense that we both have similar thoughts about culture and what feels organic and natural. With her background of growing up in Taiwan, South Africa, and immigrating to America during her teenage years, we both have an innate sense of what an Asian American diner should look and feel like, even though there is not a solid point of reference of what it is. In that sense, we are able to bounce ideas off of each other and understand which things feel contrived or forced and which things feel organically like an Asian American diner.

How have regional Chinese flavors, whether from your family’s background or broader diaspora influences, shown up in your cooking?

Cantonese and Chinese American flavor profiles are definitely more prevalent on the menu as that has been my upbringing. Taiwanese flavors also have a strong presence on the menu, as Lisa is Taiwanese and we wanted to bring some of her background into the menu as well.

Houston is one of the most diverse cities in the country. How has that cross-cultural energy influenced your menu?

Houston has influenced the menu in a huge way with the depth of diversity that exists here. Our menu has had elements of Korean, Nigerian, Mexican, Japanese, Pakistani, Cajun, Lebanese, and even Southern cuisine all on at the same time. Again, none of the dishes we create are necessarily traditional, but in a city like Houston, there are plenty of options for diners to go to more traditional restaurants alongside a more eclectic concept like ours.

Do you feel like you’re cooking more for the Chinese community, the broader Houston audience, or somewhere in between?

I feel like I’m cooking for the broader Houston audience. In my relatively short time here, I have discovered Houstonians to be very open to new flavors and experiences and the community has been very welcoming. To honor that, I wanted to make sure that Agnes and Sherman is a diner for all of Houston.

As Chinese American cuisine continues to evolve, what feels exciting or overdue right now?

I think the most exciting thing to see is other cross cultural cuisines getting more of a spotlight much like Chinese American food has gotten here in the States for the past few decades. Chifa and Nikkei cuisines in Peru, Japanese Yoshoku food, cha chaan tengs in Hong Kong, Indo-Chinese food, Chinese Puerto Rican/Dominican food, and the list goes on and on. These are the cuisines and flavors that I think best represent who we are and who we can be as a country and as a global community.

All photo credit goes to Zach Horst

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It’s as if a mid-century modern Black home and an art gallery came together in a space that just so happened to be a restaurant.

Honeysuckle is a space where people come together to learn, laugh, share memories and sometimes even cry together. It is a transformative place where people are made to feel more seen and whole than when they first walked through the front doors. And I’m not just talking about the guests who dine at Honeysuckle… There is something special about this place that fosters an exchange of ideas, feelings, and memories that enhances the lives of both the team that works so hard to care for and shape Honeysuckle, as well as the guests who dine here.

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It’s a space that synthesizes the qualities of a classroom, laboratory, and restaurant; a space that encourages creative expression, community, and empowerment. Honeysuckle serves as an example of why it is so important for restaurants to function as third spaces- beyond good service, food and drinks- in order to build community, relationships and ultimately to shape culture.

“Third spaces” are places that are outside of our homes and workplaces, where people connect with their community and even turn strangers into friends.

Honeysuckle’s interior design actively challenges both isolation and individualism. Our three dining spaces- the living room, the main dining room, and the bar & lounge area- are intimately designed to encourage guests to lean into the idea of community and relationship building. Far from a traditional restaurant layout, the living room is made up of two couch lounges and three farm tables that allow us to seat a number of parties next to each other. At first some guests might be hesitant to sit at a communal table for dinner, but as the meal goes on they soften into the space and into themselves. Oftentimes, beautiful moments occur between guests that are dining next to each other at the farm tables.

I’ve watched complete strangers tear up and share memories with each other from their childhood after having taken a sip of our Black Cake cocktail, which reminded them of their grandmother’s Black Cake recipe that they hadn’t tasted in decades.

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At the core of Honeysuckle’s philosophy is memory work, cultural preservation, and cultural production. This space can be considered a living archive of sorts. Upon entering the restaurant you are greeted by the sounds of the Black diaspora reverberating throughout the space. An altar erected directly in the front door, adorned with Black ancestors who have deeply shaped the Black diaspora and Black culture around the world - artists, writers, political activists, chefs, musicians, and more - is one of the first things guests encounter.

Additionally, art installations created by Chef-Owner Omar Tate are positioned throughout the space, piquing guests’ curiosities and interests.

Honeysuckle and all the elements within it- from the farm-to-table menu to the beverage program to the fermentation laboratory to the music playing to the art and archival items found throughout the restaurant- are deeply inspired by and grounded in the cultures and histories of Chef Omar Tate, Chef Cybille St. Aude-Tate, and their families.

Throughout the meal, servers encourage guests to get up, take in their surroundings, and ask anyone on our team about the different elements throughout the restaurant. With each course and beverage that touches our guests’ tables, our team shares the origins and stories behind dishes of the African Diaspora, many of which people are unfamiliar with. I’ve worked in the service industry for many years, and I can honestly say that I have witnessed the relationship between our guests and our team transcend a relation based on commodity, service, and transaction that is so typical in many restaurants. It is because of the dedication, care and openness that our team devotes not only to cultural preservation at Honeysuckle, but because they are equally devoted to caring for and making each guest who dines with us feel seen, every single service, that transforms Honeysuckle beyond a restaurant and into a third space.

Apart from dinner service, we have created a special event series curated by chef-owners Cybille St. Aude-Tate & Omar Tate, called Open Studios that celebrate artistry, imagination, and community. Each session invites the general public, community organizers, creatives, and food lovers alike to experience a dynamic mix of artist talks, interactive workshops, and live performances inside the restaurant space itself! What is beautiful about these curated events is that we get to welcome so many new people, many of whom have never dined with us or even heard about Honeysuckle before. These events create a space for people of different generations, cultures, and professional-backgrounds to build more connections, not only with the Honeysuckle team, but with each other.

The intimate atmosphere at Honeysuckle allows for a feeling of warmth to ripple throughout the space. The sounds of Aretha Franklin, D’Angelo, and Kokoroko resonate throughout the entire restaurant as the candlelight dances on tables of guests while the unique flavors of our food and drinks entice their palates and their spirits. Servers share stories with guests about the food, drinks and artwork, captivating the guests, guiding them through what they are experiencing. Laughs bellow across the room as the sunset shines through the large-open windows creating a homely glow that washes across the entire space. While at Honeysuckle, the outside world fades away and the here and now is all that is left.

At Honeysuckle, I’ve had the privilege of helping this third space really take shape and the honor of being able to witness the impact Honeysuckle has had on so many people’s lives already and we’ve only just begun. Third spaces are so necessary for building community and the advancement of culture, and restaurants are in such a unique position to seize the times and do both.

By: Chelsea Martin

At Lobel’s, six generations of our family have been behind the butcher block, cutting, curing, and cooking some of the finest meats in the country. Over the years, we’ve heard just about every meat myth in the book—from old wives’ tales, to internet misinformation. In an attempt to clarify what you should and shouldn’t believe, here’s some things to keep in mind next time you’re buying or preparing meat.

Myth #1: You Can’t Refreeze Meat Once It’s Thawed

This one has been making the rounds for decades, and it’s simply not true — if you’re handling your meat properly. Meat that’s been thawed slowly and safely in the refrigerator can absolutely be refrozen without compromising safety. The key is temperature control. As long as the meat hasn’t been left out at room temperature for extended periods, you’re in the clear. Will the texture change slightly? Possibly. But flavor and safety remain intact.

Myth #2: White Meat Is Always Healthier Than Red Meat

We hear this a lot, especially from folks watching their diets. While it’s true that white meats like chicken or turkey breast can be leaner, that’s not the whole picture. Add the skin back on, and suddenly your “lean” white meat packs more fat and calories than a beautifully trimmed cut of beef. Take filet mignon or a center-cut New York strip—both are lean, high in protein, and low in saturated fat when trimmed correctly. In other words: red meat isn’t the enemy.

Myth #3: You Have to Cook Meat Until It’s Well Done to Be Safe

Safety has more to do with temperature than color or doneness. Ground meats should always be cooked to 160°F, since bacteria can be mixed throughout during grinding. But for steaks, roasts, and chops, 135°F (medium rare) is perfectly safe—because bacteria live on the surface, not inside the cut. That’s why a proper sear does more than add flavor—it’s a safety step, too. Use a meat thermometer, and you’ll never have to overcook your steak out of fear again.

Myth #4: Organic or Grass-Fed Means It’s Healthier

Labels like “organic” and “grass-fed” often speak more to farming practices than nutrition. While there are subtle nutritional differences—such as slightly higher Omega-3s in grass-fed beef—the real variation is in taste, sustainability, and ethics. Grass-fed beef tends to have a more pronounced, earthy flavor. Organic practices can reflect a commitment to animal welfare and environmental stewardship. But nutritionally? The gap is narrower than most think.

Myth #5: Red Meat Is Just Bad for You, Period

While moderation and method matter, most of the health concerns surrounding red meat come from processed meats or meats that are heavily charred. A responsibly portioned, properly cooked steak? That’s a whole different story. Focus less on the meat itself and more on how it’s cooked. Grilling, roasting, and pan-searing are all great methods—just avoid burning or blackening your meat beyond recognition.

Rapid Fire Additional Myth Busting:

● Short-Term Freezing Ruins Meat: Not true. Frozen well and defrosted correctly, meat can be almost as good as fresh!

● Washing Meat Removes Bacteria: This is a no-go. All you’re doing is spreading bacteria around your sink. Heat, not water, kills bacteria.

● Pork Has to Be Gray to Be Safe: Not anymore. If your pork reaches 145°F, a little blush of pink is perfectly fine—and often more delicious.

● Microwaving Meat Is Unsafe: Not ideal for quality, but totally safe. Just don’t expect the same texture as other methods.

● Fat Is the Enemy: Fat is flavor! A well-marbled steak or chop makes for a rich and delicate piece of meat.

We shed our coats and shake off the cold that stuck to us on the walk from her apartment. After ordering a customary cup of pot coffee (a guaranteed first of several), I take a chance to soak in the Bushwick institution that's withstood the test of eight decades.

There is magic here, as there is in most great diners, in the simplicity of it all: a constant stream of coffee that flows directly from an industrial brewer seemingly straight into patrons' expecting, ever-depleting mugs; a menu that is steadfast in its straightforwardness — taking pride in the fact that it's as affordable as it is filling; a waitstaff that feels simply inseparable from the diner itself, pacing between tasks like worker bees, but all equally as important as the queen bee.

This scene — this beautiful scene — feels more and more rare in a city where the cost of doing anything keeps creeping up. Rebecca eulogizes past establishments that didn't make through her decade-plus as a New Yorker. Good Stuff on 14th. Jimmy's on Union. All of which have shuttered their doors only to be reinvented for their next life as a sushi spot or a french bistro, respectively.

Change can, at times, feel like the only constant in New York's restaurant scene. Buildings that once housed a decade-plus worth of memories can overnight shapeshift into something new, something different — lathered clean by a fresh coat of paint and a new name.

But the death of a diner feels more personal. These spaces, by design, saddle you as close as possible to not only your friend, acquaintance, or lover but also your neighbors. People can be anonymous until you're both pressed up to the diner bar, forced to occupy the same minimal space available and, even if only a little, to become aware of the lives that your fellow New Yorkers are living. Their journeys, their stories, where they're coming from, and what they're ducking away from. What collective spaces they're currently mourning.

There is a stark need for more diner-like spaces where people can congregate, get a cheap, filling meal, and just exist for a while. And on that Sunday, I'm grateful that Tina's exists and that Rebecca approaches diner ordering the same way I do (one savory and one sweet dish to be shared). Even though there's a long list of closed doors in Rebecca's favorites, this one remains open. And I'm grateful we get to spend that Sunday afternoon eating, eavesdropping, and hiding away from the rain.

By Aaron Christianson

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P.S. Here are a few of our favorite diners that are still open. While we encourage you to check these out, we doubly suggest you visit your local diner to see what it's all about.

• Tom’s Restaurant in Prospect Heights

• Court Square Diner in Long Island City

• La Bonbonniere NYC in the West Village

• Gracie’s on 2nd in Yorkville

• Montague Diner in Brooklyn Heights

• B&H Dairy in Noho

• Bel Aire Diner in Astoria

• Waverly Diner in the West Village

• Andrew’s Diner in Eltingville

Cory O’Brien-Pniewski, 35, West Bloomfield, MI.

What is your title and where do you work?

Taproom Head Bartender, The Dead Rabbit NYC.

It's someone's first time at Dead Rabbit, what would you recommend that they order?

Definitely the Irish Coffee made with Teeling Small Batch Irish Whiskey. It’s our most well known drink, and we execute it flawlessly – a perfectly balanced cocktail and a St. Patrick’s Day favorite at The Dead Rabbit.

Do you remember an exact moment that your passion for cocktail development started?

The first time I had a cocktail with egg white in 2011. It really opened a door for me in terms of learning more about cocktail complexity and texture, and it jumped started my interest in cocktail development.

What was your first bartending job?

I had worked part time in bars and restaurants while going to school over the years but my first bartending job in NYC was 2014 at a bourbon bar in Harlem. I was part of the opening team.

It's your night off, where are you heading to grab a drink outside of work?

On my night off I’m heading uptown to ROKC for a bowl of Ramen and a highball.

In your opinion, what are the elements of a perfectly balanced cocktail?

In my opinion, a cocktail not only should be balanced but should also tell a story. The best cocktails are the ones that tell the best stories. A cocktail should have a nice balance of flavors with a high note in the middle but one that develops as it washes over your palate and takes you on a journey as you drink it. When developing cocktails, I believe you should focus on quality of ingredients over quantity of ingredients. I find that in most cases, less is more.

My name is Tomo Kubo. I am 43 years old and I am from Tokyo, Japan. I was worried about naming the restaurant TabeTomo (which translates to “eating buddy”) at first. In Japan, this would be considered a weird name for a restaurant so I was worried that if we failed, people would say it's because of the name. Now that we’ve opened and been in business for 6 years, I’m happy I made that decision.

What is your position at TabeTomo?

I am the Chef Partner.

How have you been navigating the reopening after the fire?

The fire was de-motivating from a business standpoint, but it was touching to see all the support from the neighbors and community. The silver lining was that it gave us time to take a step back and take all our experiences the past 6 years and really apply those lessons going forward to create a better experience for our supporters.

What has been the most motivating factor of this process?

Definitely the East Village community and all of our neighbors. It was touching seeing all the regulars stop by during our renovation, asking when we will re-open and offering their support. We were also blown away by the support we received on grand opening day.

Are there any new plans for the restaurant as you enter this next chapter? 

We just want to continue improving and working to provide a better experience for our customers. Going through COVID, the protests, and now this fire, the team’s mantra has always been to take any challenge and use it as an opportunity to learn.

There is a popular Japanese proverb “nana korobi ya oki” which translates to “fall down seven, get up eight”, and has become the team’s slogan. After re-opening, it’s really now taking that mindset to continue improving and provide even better food and experiences for our customers.

Our vision for TabeTomo has always been a restaurant that’s warm, inviting and friendly—a place that customers want to go to to re-connect with friends and neighbors. We want it to have a cool and energetic vibe similar to sake bars that I grew up in in Tokyo so we’re always working towards that goal.

Favorite menu item? 

Definitely the Tsukemen (or dipping ramen)!

Favorite place to eat out in the East Village (when you aren't at the restaurant!)? 

KENKA on St. Marks! It has great vibes, great deals and I love that izakaya style of food.

So when Sfoglini reached out with their generous gift to send me their new long cuts, it was an immediate, “Yes chef.”

Pasta is one of the categories of food I am so happy to enjoy in a restaurant (Altro Paradiso, Via Carota & Anton’s are top favorites) but equally as happy to make it myself. There’s something about the gathering of ingredients, setting up my mise in place and watching it all come together that is meditative for me. On the weekend, I love a project like a bolognese and during school nights, I love how easy it is to whip up a quick sauce + get dinner on the table in less than 30 minutes.

I tested these two new long pastas in both methods - 1 project and 1 easy recipe with the help of NYTCooking.

Dinner #1 - Bucatini with Drop Turkey Meatballs in Tomato Sauce

You truly can’t go wrong with red sauce. However, next time, would make the turkey meatballs separately i.e. baking it and make the sauce separately. We found the onions weren’t cooked evenly when following this recipe step for step. The highlight of this meal was the bucatini - I love this shape because it is simply so fun to eat. It’s like a noodle straw!

Dinner #2 - Bigoli, Green Beans and Potatoes in Pesto Sauce

I owe NYT Cooking an apology, because when I read this recipe, I was super skeptical of cooking the potatoes, green beans and pasta in the same water for 20 min total and called BS. I’m sorry I ever doubted you. What the potato did do perfectly was add texture and body to the pesto sauce and it felt super hearty. We ate this with local arctic char from our fish shop and it was divine. I had this for lunch leftovers for two days straight and I could have eaten it more.

Sfoglini is definitely an investment but it makes a difference in your meals and you can taste the quality.

I may or may not have added this Year of Pasta subscription to my wedding registry because I can’t get enough.

x

Angel

The book highlights the African-inspired and globally-influenced dishes, all of which are accented by California’s bountiful produce. Kiano’s collection of 85+ vibrant and modern recipes beautifully illustrates Kiano’s passion for her African heritage and California lifestyle. Kiano seamlessly combines these cultures with approachable techniques, flavors, and ingredients, all of which have defined her way of cooking, artfully named AfriCali.

What is your name, age, and where are you from?

My name is Kiano Moju, I'm 32 years old, and I’m from Oakland, California. I grew up in the Bay Area and spent many summers in Kenya, which deeply influences my cooking today.

What was your first restaurant job?

My first restaurant job was in the dining hall at my high school. All students were required to have an on-campus job, and working there taught me the basics of large-scale food preparation and teamwork.

What is your earliest memory of cooking?

My earliest memory of cooking was during summers on my grandparents' ranch. My grandma would give me small tasks like gathering firewood or feeding maize to the chickens, which made me feel like I was contributing to the meal preparation, even at a young age.

What is your favorite recipe in your new cookbook?

My favorite recipe in AfriCali is the CaliMess. It’s my twist on the classic British dessert Eton Mess, but with an AfriCali spin. I use passionfruit to bring a tart and tropical flavor, turning it into a sundae with ice cream and passionfruit syrup. It’s a dessert that really encapsulates the fusion of my African heritage with Californian influences.

What should everyone have in their kitchen?

Everyone should have a pestle and mortar in their kitchen. It’s an aesthetic but practical tool that I use often, whether it’s for grinding spices or making a quick marinade. Plus, it really connects you to the ingredients you’re working with.

What is the most underrated spice?

Green cardamom. It’s a spice I always have in my pantry, and I find it to be incredibly versatile. It can be used in both sweet and savory dishes, and it adds a unique, aromatic depth to anything you cook.

Who are your cooking inspirations?

I’m inspired by my grandmother Koko, who taught me the importance of understanding and respecting ingredients. I also admire chefs like Marcus Samuelsson for the way they’ve brought African flavors to a global audience. And of course, I’m inspired by the diverse food cultures of California and my African heritage.

What is something you always keep in your fridge?

I always have homemade condiments in my fridge. Whether it’s a spicy pili pili sauce or a jar of preserved lemons, these condiments are a quick way to elevate any dish.

Favorite food city?

Mexico City. The food scene there is incredibly vibrant and diverse, with a deep appreciation for traditional flavors while also embracing modern culinary techniques. I recently had a memorable lunch at Masala y Maiz, where the menu explores the intersectionality of Mexican, Kenyan, and Indian cuisine.

Savory or sweet breakfast?

Sweet. My passion for cooking started with desserts, so I love starting the day with something like a freshly baked croissant and a cuppa tea. Anytime I travel, the first thing I do is look for a bakery.

This time, we received news that A-Sha Noodles collaborated with Hot Ones to launch a limited edition drop. The line up included three new flavors. Similar to the previous noodles we received, these noodles were made using A-Sha’s air-dried technique, which means they’re not fried but still packed with flavor. ~~ok healthy!

The new collection features a range of spice levels, from mild to super hot, so obviously we had to do a taste test and see who could handle the heat, which some of us (Angel) couldn’t. Luckily for us, there’s an option to add extra extra spice - we love a customizable experience. 

We started from mild to hot to really warm up our palate.

Busboy Tasting Notes:

Sweet Chili Ramen (Mild) This one was a fun start! Even though it's labeled as medium, it has a subtle heat that really enhances the overall flavor. It comes with a packet of tiny meatballs (vegan-friendly) and spices. Adding the spice packet definitely kicks up the heat, especially when you sip the broth, but the noodles themselves remain mild. It strikes a nice balance between sweet and spicy.

Garlic Chili Ramen (Medium) This was a great middle ground for those wanting a bit more spice without going overboard. The broth is bursting with flavor, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by how rich it is—even without the added spice. Just a heads up: if you do decide to go for the full spice packet, be prepared for some serious heat! Angel had to stand up and grab some water after this one.

Our Favorite: Smoky Chili Ramen (Hot) This one won us over! The smoky flavor in the broth is really prominent, and it pairs wonderfully with some added steak for a hearty meal. It’s definitely spicy, but without the extra spice packet, it remains accessible for most. So don’t let the "HOT" label intimidate you—it's a delightful option for anyone looking to spice up their lunch!

Overall, each flavor brings something unique to the table, and our taste test was a tasty adventure.

Theodora will bring you to the Mediterranean serving an abundance of fresh seafood. Order a bottle of natural wine, a whole fish, and some perfectly seasoned vegetables and you will almost be able to hear waves crashing behind you. It will be your most relaxing staycation dinner.

BB: “What is your most blissful food moment?”

Chef Tomer Blechman: “When I get the last bite of the pita that has all the juices in the bottom.”

If you were looking forward to some French cooking at its finest make your way to Chez Ma Tante. On a very European corner of Greenpoint you will find this French Canadian-inspired French Bistro. Order the seasonal salad, their unbelievable pork chop, and French fries of course. You won’t wish you were in France because you’re eating just as good at home.

BB: “If you could give a piece of advice to someone who wanted to pursue your career, what would it be?”

Lisandra Bernadet: “Read, put ego aside, and lead with empathy. In the positions I hold at Chez Ma Tante, I’m constantly learning and humbled. Being creative and supporting the growers I love is a small part of my job. The majority of it is managing a team of incredible but very different people. Asking questions like, how do we create a harmonious and challenging work environment while prioritizing memorable experiences for guests. It’s a lot of organizing, talking, gaining perspective, and reading. I think it’s very important for folks who love wine and want to be in restaurants to ultimately love people first.”

If you want to be a tourist and are craving Italian aperitivo culture check out Lodi at Rockefeller Center. Eat lunch beside the people of New York and order a spritz, pasta, and a tiramisu for dessert. Say hi to the ice skaters down the block and get the heck out of there. Going to a neighborhood you might not usually find yourself in for a great meal is a vacation of its own.

BB: “What's your favorite dish on the menu?”

Emily Roy: “That’s easy! Our Crostini di Fegato - a perfectly crisp baguette crostini with a beautiful ribbon of liver pâté. Salty, crunchy, delicious. And the Sarde Ripiene special we have at the moment is *chefs kiss*. Would definitely recommend”

If Italian cuisine is calling your name, you are living in the right place. My favorite “secret” spot in Williamsburg for authentic Italian food and an authentic Italian vibe is Dough Vale. The owner will treat you like family and give you an extra taste of prosciutto, cheese, and wine he’s dying for you to try. Get whatever the chef tell you to get, they are all divine. Chat with the table next to you and enjoy a taste of Italy in your backyard.

The hardest part of Europe to track down is an evening espresso and pastry on the patio. Lilia Caffé in Greenpoint is one of the few places that scratches this itch. The homemade soft serve is particularly delicious, but all the desserts are worth a try. The outdoor table selections encourage the European vibe we are looking for!

There are so many ways to treat yourself in New York. From food to concerts to an unexpected encounter with a stranger, there’s lots to look forward to. You don’t have to go abroad to take advantage of an amazing city, try something new right at home 🏙️

When you think of The Jersey Shore, traditional boardwalk favorites like pizza, hot dogs, and saltwater taffy come to mind. These iconic eateries often evoke nostalgic memories and are cherished for their classic flavors and atmosphere- At Superfrico, we try to balance the area's unique food nostalgia with the diner's growing culinary curiosity.

However, alongside these beloved staples, there has been a noticeable emergence of new dining experiences. The shore has started tapping into the land's rich farms and growing season - locally sourced ingredients, artisanal products, and creative menu offerings have become more prevalent, reflecting broader food trends and preferences.

Despite the proliferation of new dining options, many people maintain a deep-seated loyalty to the restaurants that have been fixtures in their lives for generations. Whether it's a family-owned diner that has been serving up comfort food for decades or a seafood shack with a signature dish that keeps patrons coming back year after year, these establishments hold a special place in the community's collective culinary consciousness. The team at Superfrico works hard to respect the Shore's traditions, while also pushing boundaries and offering an experience you can't get anywhere else.

While the food scene on the Jersey Shore has undoubtedly evolved over the years, with the introduction of new flavors and dining experiences, the enduring loyalty to traditional eateries underscores the deep-rooted connection between food, nostalgia, and community on the shore.

We’re talking hand-pressed waffle cones filled with cinnamon ancho chile ice cream dipped in single-origin chocolate, and studded with toasted brown rice.

These updated CT’s are additionally served with three custom sauce packets including Chocolate Chili, Cinnamon Wild Berry and Mango Jalapeño, and a tangy cheesecake dip. We interviewed Malek to get to know how Salt & Straw and the Chaco Taco came to be. Enjoy the ice cream BTS!

What is your title and where are you from?

Co-founder and head ice cream maker, Seattle, WA

What is the story behind Salt & Straw?

My cousin, Kim, and I founded Salt & Straw with the hope of creating a neighborhood gathering space where friends and loved ones could come together and learn more about their communities. We knew ice cream would be the perfect platform to tell stories of the artisans and creators in our communities, and we use our rotating menus to showcase the seasonality of ingredients, food movements, and important social causes.  

How did you fall into ice cream?

I was pursuing a degree in Chinese and Business and was actually getting ready to move to Beijing when a family member fell sick. I came back home and fell in love with cooking because it brought us all together, in good times and in bad. This inspired me to go to culinary school. When I heard about Kim’s plans to start her own ice cream company, I immediately dropped out to help her. I fell into ice cream because of the creativity that comes with it—it opens up so many opportunities to explore different flavor combinations and tell different stories. 

Did you always know you wanted to be sold nationwide?

We actually began shipping nationwide the first month we started scooping! We were getting featured in some incredible publications, and people were in love with the stories we were telling through ice cream and wanted to try our rotating monthly menus. So we’ve been shipping our ice cream across the country ever since.  

What has been your favorite flavor over the years?

Oh, man. My favorite flavor changes literally every month. Right now, we’re testing out our berries flavors for July so I’m eating a lot of our Goat Cheese Marionberry Habanero flavor and it’s getting me so excited for summer.

Has Taco Bell always been a dream collaboration for you?

I would have never dreamt of this partnership when we first started scooping out of a pushcart. But Taco Bell’s level of sheer innovation on the scale they’re working at is absolutely awe-inspiring. When we started meeting with their team and working on ideas together, we knew this would be an epic collaboration. 

What's your favorite Taco Bell menu item? 

I can’t stop eating their new Cheesy Chicken Crispanada. You have to try it.  

Out of all of their menu items, I am most partial to that pillowy Pork Bao and ever-changing soft-serve flavors. To honor their 20th birthday, Momofuku is bringing back some of their retired dishes from the past. Each month they will highlight a dish that made Momofuku Noodle Bar what it is today. You will find dishes like Spicy Pork Sausage & Rice Cakes (2006), Fuji Apple Kimchi (2005), and Fried Brussel Sprouts (2006) to name a few.

Earlier this year, we were invited to the anniversary kick-off party, where we were able to try all of the dishes they are highlighting this year. Most of the night, I was caught between the sliced-to-order country ham with red eye gravy and the drumstick of fried chicken with creme fresh and caviar - only taking breaks to top off my cup in the Momofuku sake ice lounge. It was a luxurious night of eating, to say the least. 

If you are in NYC and can manage it, I highly recommend heading over once a month for all of 2024 to try every special they are offering. If that feels unreasonable, here are some of my faves to look out for below:

1. One of the most fun dishes of the night was the whole roasted pig. The amazing staff was carving the pig right in front of us. The bib lettuce, pickled veggies, and chili vinaigrette made for the perfect bite.

2. I also loved the Spicy Pork Sausage & Rice Cakes. The chewy rice cakes are a perfect vessel for the spicy pork and sauce. It is almost like eating a Hot Cheeto, you can’t help yourself but go back for more.

3. My overall fave was the Shrimp Bun. I could eat one of those every day of the week. You can’t go wrong with a slightly sweet bun, a shrimp patty, and spicy mayo. The flavors are made for each other.

We hope everyone can go try some of these Noodle Bar staples in the coming year. They are worth a night out in the East Village for sure!

The concept is ironic. How could someone surrounded by food all day forget to feed themselves? The way I see it, the hospitality industry has several systemic issues that nurture self-neglect: a lack of enforced breaks, a culture where healthy habits are “uncool,” and, more often than not, a seriously understaffed kitchen. I’m here to offer my simple solutions, and maybe it’s the cook in me, but they all have one thing in common–family meal. As ironic as the concept of a cook not eating may seem, a startling percentage have reported “experiencing symptoms of disordered eating.” According to a report by the nonprofit Not 9 to 5–which works to bring mental health awareness and training to restaurant and hospitality industry professionals–63% of 673 restaurant workers surveyed indicated such. If this is true, the correlation of eating disorders in cooks seems akin to an alcoholic behind the bar, and in both cases, the choice of profession is often intentional. As food professionals, we share one thing in common–we’re all obsessed with food. While an obsession with your craft sounds normal, those cooking with an eating disorder may be using elaborate meals and hours preparing food for others as a quiet excuse not to eat. So why aren’t we talking about it more loudly?

In recent years, chefs and industry professionals have stopped starving in silence and are beginning to share their experiences to encourage change. And while I’ve heard different answers depending on who I ask, common triggers exist daily in food service. Those include high stress, abnormal sleep schedules, and long shifts, most days as a cook being 1:30 pm - 12:30 am. However, the most damaging trigger is the one that suggests that being promoted means one must overwork themselves into poor physical and mental health. Many of the pieces I’ve read have reinforced the idea that this narrative was the easiest excuse they could use not to eat. It didn’t take much digging for several servers to relay information similar to the cooks. “The restaurant industry is breeding grounds for neglecting yourself physically–water, food, rest–all things our bodies and minds need to function,” they tell me. Adding that the culture of neglect “encourages complacency for those with eating disorders like mine. For years, I hid my anorexia behind my restaurant jobs. The shifts created an excuse to be ‘too busy to eat.”

The impetus of what this server brings up reminds me of the toxic narrative we see as cooks: that overworking equals promotion, bringing me to my first solution. Family meal should be required for everyone. What I mean by this is that while most restaurants already require it daily before service, one still constantly sees their sous and upper management work straight through their breaks. So much so that it begins to feel like a rite of passage to skip ours and not eat. Not only does this lousy example tell the line cook or server that they must sacrifice their break if they want to get ahead, but it also whispers to the mind of a disordered eater that regularly nurturing themselves isn’t the norm in this environment. A heavier emphasis on family meals, including upper management, allows everyone to refuel their bodies and minds while connecting with their team, creativity, and productivity—a real win-win for the employee and the managing staff.

Outside of enforcing breaks for all, my second point is approaching family meals with a healthier intention and tenderness. No, I don’t mean taking turns holding hands or burning our ex’s sweatshirts. I mean making family meals healthier, nutritionally and mentally. For me, this point carries extra weight. Years before I began cooking professionally, I grappled with contradicting mindsets–a nerdy passion for food and a loud orthorexic voice that told me I needed to be strict with what I put into my body. I would make plans with friends to check out a restaurant I was dying to try and fall into a panic as the date drew near. Ultimately, I’d end up eating before to ensure I had something healthy, tell them, “Whoops, I just ate! I’ll join, but just grab a coffee,” as if the entire point of our hang wasn’t to eat at the restaurant I’d chosen. 

It took me years to improve my mindset around food and create a healthy balance, but I’m still imperfect. I thought these voices had gone away until I began working the line of a kitchen mainly composed of young men. Often working through breaks, downing whiskey shots, every Modelo handed to them, and treating their bodies like shit to sustain the longevity of their shifts–I felt the tickle of my old triggers reappear. As a woman in the kitchen, I’m expected to keep up with the boys. Don’t get me wrong, sometimes the camaraderie of it all is fun. It can even be the best part of working the line–singing to the music, feeding off the energy of the packed dining room, and working quickly as a team. But I’m talking about those especially grueling services, when the whole “eat what they eat, drink what they drink” makes stomaching all the stress all the more difficult. Because I’m working on an empty tank, nutritionally or literally, and as a woman, I feel I have additional expectations. Namely, the one that nags me is to keep up with the masculine energy while maintaining a charming, feminine physical appearance. It wasn’t until I read Maya Okada Erickson’s piece, “Girl Vs. Food,” that I realized other women and femme-presenting people felt the same. Although some hide it better than others, these social triggers are common. For me, feeding into those triggers would look like a night as “one of the boys,” followed by a day of severely under-eating to balance things out. 

With all of this in mind, it’s fair to say none of this is as simple as an equation of cook + food = eating disorder, or that all cooks = masochists stewing in their disorders, but rather that hospitality environments as they currently operate, are ubiquitous to self-neglect. And coming back to my original point, healthier family meals could support a healthier culture in a steady way long-term. Nutritionally, this looks like a well-rounded family meal. Recently, we prepared a chicken taginetajine with carrots, peppers, and fresh broth that made us feel good throughout service. Another chef I worked with told me they built substance into their meals as a part of their daily system–assigning each cook one section of family: a protein, a veg, a starch, and always a salad. You could do whatever you wanted within said structure, but the suggestion of a well-rounded meal ensured their cooks weren’t going hungry, nor were they eating plain buttered pasta or a heavy-cream lamb stew just before service. In addition to nutrition, mentally healthy environments are also essential to nurture. Why not use family meal as an opportunity to check in more frequently and with caring intentions? Asking the team how they’re doing and providing a longer pause for answers instead of filling the void with senseless chatter and spoons hitting the plate is a beautiful start. 

Smooth as butter on bread, which could go on the side of that chicken soup your team just made–we slide to the final point. If a goal is continually late during prep, and it requires you or your sous to skip their break, it is because that goal is unrealistic for the skill level or scale of the staff. And an understaffed kitchen leads to burnout. I have noticed some restaurants are trying out a ‘floater’ role as a solution. The floater is an extra line cook who comes in toward the end of prep, just before family meal to help anyone on the team who is falling behind and ensure that service can run smoothly. They also stay through the majority of service and prep. Not only does this help the team get ahead for the next day, but it creates room for more frequent breaks during service because this team member also knows how to work the line. The role gives the line cook a moment to notice they’re starving and have a 5-minute snack, bathroom break, or take a deep breath if they’ve just had a particularly sweaty push. A similar system could be in place for front-of-house workers, as well. Giving no more room for “I’m too busy to eat” with simple tweaks such as these.

For some, without these tweaks, leaving restaurants is the only answer. “My health and energy were at an all time low,” a friend tells me, who left restaurants to become a freelance cook. “Because of the culture, I abandoned self-care, hobbies, and friendships. Leaving restored my love of food.” Their experience raised another question: How soon can we begin employing these solutions? Because restaurants will still exist, whether we are a part of them or not. And I personally want to be a part of them. 

I suppose you can answer that–our leaders within the industry, that is. Bring more awareness to the issue, share your piece with your team, and be open to hearing new points of view. I’ll say it once more just so we’re clear. Neglecting your mental and physical needs and skipping your break does not make you more dedicated. It doesn’t make you more talented or a superior cook, period. One day, I’d love to wake up and cook in an environment where we’re all surrounded by food and we, too, are fed and watered. Like little plants. Now that’s something I can ‘cheers’ to -; where’s my Modelo?

Thema Saunders

Q: Which holiday dish always gives you a little bit of nerves?

A: For sure the Hasselback Butternut Squash! The dish is super fall-esque so is always ordered around Thanksgiving when chefs are servicing upwards of 20 guests. Don’t get me wrong—I love a good holiday party but when you have to meticulously slice up tens and tens of squashes it can really be a pain and hassle (no pun intended!).

Q: What’s your favorite dish you see on a Culinista holiday menu?

A: Hands-down the Ginger Almond Cookies. I like adding my own twist by using freshly grated ginger and an orange glaze and it is never not a crowd favorite. Second place would probably be the Cassoulet Blanc. It is so perfect for when the weather is getting colder. It’s really really rich and just such a quintessential fall dish.

Q: What’s one grocery item you always buy even if it’s not featured in the menu because you know it’ll make the party 100?

A: Fresno peppers for the win! A little trick is to pickle them early on in the night and use them to add some spice and flavor to your savory dishes. These have just the right amount of tang so you’re able to really control the acidity and spice without adding too much heat. Not to mention, you can use it as a garnish because it is just such a beautiful bright red.

Q: Favorite holiday herb to work with?

A: Sage, sage, sage! Lately, I’ve been gravitating towards a sweeter sage, like a sage and maple combo. It is a really gorgeous blend but also a salty sage never misses. It’s such a classic and it fries up so beautifully. I absolutely love the deep and warm flavor that it brings to any dish.

Doug Cox

Q: Any personal family traditions you sneak into services?

A: A long standing tradition in my family is to spank the turkey. While I don’t go around spanking clients’ raw birds, I have been known to bust out the meat tenderizer from time to time before popping that bad boy in the oven.

Q: What’s the best way to elevate a simple dish to make it holiday-worthy?

A: Holidays are all about feeling full. Emotionally, physically, mentally. I say throw in a little extra butter around the holidays. It’ll help keep ya warm! And, a dash of nutmeg will take any plain dish to a new holiday favorite.

Q: Favorite holiday herb to work with?

A: Sage, hands down is the most obvious choice here but if you are trying to get a little cheffy with it around the holidays, try substituting with a little Marjoram. It’s like sage’s Italian cousin—a little sage-y, a little oregano-y, a little thyme-y. It will leave your guests in wonderment!

Mariio Henry

Q: What’s the most difficult or fun holiday party you’ve pulled off?

A: One of the most difficult holiday parties would have to be a Christmas party I did with a fellow ‘nista’. It was in Soho in a tiny apartment—could you just imagine cooking a whole Turkey in a tiny oven. A recipe for disaster! They also requested Cacio e Pepe for 30 guests which was a bit of a nightmare with the precision that it takes to make that dish perfect. With all the odds against us, not having big enough pots and working in a tiny kitchen, we were able to pull it off and had a fabulous dinner like the true ‘Nistas’ we are!

Q: What are you most relieved to see in a client’s home when you are cooking a dinner party?

A: Believe or not a BLENDER. So many clients tend to not have some basic kitchen equipment and a good blender seems to be one of those items. A good Vitamix or similar brand blender can do wonders with so many dishes. Whether it’s a sauce, dressing, puree, etc.

Q: Favorite holiday herb to work with?

A: My favorite holiday herb is MOST definitely, ROSEMARY—the perfect herb in so many ways! Flavor—it elevates any dish bringing in that familiar warm holiday taste. Aroma—it fills the air with notes of pine and citrus to remind you that it is holiday season. Presentation—it lends itself not only as a garnish for food & charcuterie boards, but also doubles as a beautiful filler for table centerpieces.

We were also able to interview Rodger Mark Bowser, the chef and managing partner of Zingerman’s Deli. He talked us through how he fell in love with cooking through his farm-to-table upbringing and hanging out in his home kitchen.

Full name, age, where are you from?

Rodger Mark Bowser. I will be 48 this month. I'm from Michigan.

What is your title and where do you work?

Chef and Managing Partner at Zingerman's Deli. I work in the Deli kitchen, sandwich line, and help support purchasing logistics, merchandising, and marketing.

Was food a big part of your upbringing?

Food was a big part of my upbringing. Like many people who grew up in rural Michigan, we were a large family and had a huge garden and cooked at home a lot. I cooked a lot with my aunt feeding the family. She is a big part of what drew me into the kitchen.

What are your earliest memories of dining out?

Boring fast food, 80s diners and Big Boy. I didn’t get out much when I was young. I didn’t find out that I was allergic to crustaceans until I was 17.  Probably didn’t eat my first avocado till around that time either.    

If you could give a piece of advice to someone who wanted to pursue your career, what would it be?

My advice to someone who wants to pursue a career as a chef is to start cooking now. Visit your local farmers market or better yet, sign up for a CSA. Cooking with what is available will change the way you cook forever. I also recommend putting yourself in as many cooking situations as you can to learn to cook.  You can learn a lot from the lunch ladies at school, summer camps, big city restaurants–every situation that you can possibly think of.   You never know which part of it you are going to enjoy the most.   

What's your favorite dish/drink on the Deli menu?

Pretty much any sandwich that is in front of me.  But if you made me choose, I’d say that I’m not too original and would choose our #2 Zingerman’s Reuben. There is nothing like our corned beef! We’ve been continuously improving the recipe for 41 years! The Brinery Kraut is top-notch. For a drink, I’d grab a rhubarb-ade (if in season) or a Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray.

What is your favorite place to go out and eat at and what are you ordering?

My family and I really like going out for Korean BBQ. Guess who ends up cooking at the table? Maple Grill in Hemlock, Michigan is one of my favorite places in the state right now. It’s family-owned and they grow most of the things you find on the menu. The menu is seasonal and constantly rotating. The kind of thing you’d find in a bigger city, but this place is very unassuming, and not at all showy. Just really good fire-cooked food and beer. And for some reason, I am a sucker for a good patty melt. I have sampled them across the country.

What shoes are you rocking during service?

Well-broken-in Red Wing chukkas.

What blossomed was a quintessential New York, 20-somethings tradition – starting our Sundays with a walk to the bagel shop. Sometimes Heaven’s, down the street from us.  Sometimes a trek up to 19th street for our favorite, Ess-a-Bagel.  But there’s one constant: pumpernickel bagels.

I wasn’t always this cool though.  I began my life, like so many of us, as an Everything Kid.  Eating them since I was in diapers.  As constant in my tween life as turf burn and unrequited crushes. Everything bagels are irresistible.  They have everything on them! The Works!

Some days I was a Cinnamon Raisin Kid, if I was getting a PB&J.  And occasionally on dark days when they ran out of everything else, I was an Onion Kid. But one fateful morning, I heard my Ashkenazi ancestors whispering in my ear, the persuasion of myriad New York Jews before me, and everything changed.  I became a Pumpernickel Man.

Pumpernickel – molasses-y in flavor, an indiscernible funk.  The thinking person’s bagel.  The delicate firmness of the rye crust.  The gentle spice of the caraway seed.  A subtly fermented canvas on which to paint your most hungover breakfast sandwich, pairing as well with nova lox, as a bacon, egg, and cheese.

When you were in college you probably drank what everyone else did at parties.  Rum and cokes, gin and tonics. Unsophisticated, brutalist, utilitarian.  But now you’re an adult.  You enjoy the bite of a martini, the depth of a Boulevardier. You crave the complex pinging and panging of an Aviation.

Do you not expect your bagel tastes to develop the same way?  Sure you enjoyed the everything bagel when you were a kid. And sure, it gets the job done.  But when was the last time you stepped outside your comfort zone?  Took a risk on a Sunday morning, felt the blood rushing through your veins as you ventured into new ground.

__

The pumpernickel bagel says, I’m mysterious, I have something up my sleeve.  It’s in its nature.  The main flavorings of the bagels are rye flour and caraway seed – ingredients so humble they needn't assume the bagel’s title.  Not like the indignant poppy or sesame seed, needing to stake their claim forthright.  Pumpernickel’s quite the opposite.  Sitting on its heels, coyly waiting for you to make the first move like a babe at a high school dance.

And if everything thus far hasn’t encouraged you to take the plunge into FlavorTown, I’ll leave you with this.  The name? Well “pumpernickel” is a German word, harkening back to the bagel’s roots in Weistephan, Germany.  “Nickel” stemming from the name Niklaus, a name usually attributed to goblins and devilish characters. And “Pumpern,” to flatulate. So, the next time you and your partner take a Sunday walk to the bagel shop, order yourself a Farting Devil. Because everyone deserves to be more interesting.

At the helm is Drew Peña, a chef who cut his teeth in the kitchens of NY and beyond the last 10 years.  A skate kid at heart with a sly sense of humor, flexible yet driven in his food.  At his side is long-time friend, Ian Preut, the store manager of Fuckin’ Awesome in the LES and a badass home cook. “I didn’t want to have some chef back here being annoying and shit,” Drew explains. “It’s just me and my buddy making food.”  Ian’s the ideal right hand man, whether he’s washing dishes during downtime or diffusing tension during a rush.

The albondigas, doused in a refreshing Spanish marinara, inspire exactly that.  They’re paired with a frisee salad, dressed in nothing more than a sherry-shallot vinaigrette and fine herbs.  Simple yet potent, the dish is perfect for sharing, but can be easily inhaled by one.  

Unfortunately, if you don’t get the albondigas now, you might miss out.  The menu plans to turn over as the seasons begin to change. “Once it gets warmer out we’ll probably start doing a lot more with fish.”

Remaining seasonal is a goal for Drew and Ian, even with a limited residency.  “A lot of the dishes depend on what’s inspiring me at the market that week.  It’s nice to have three months here; it means we have a home for whatever creative idea we want to tackle.”  It harkens back to the exciting nature of Eva’s – an audacious menu, while showcasing elegant restraint.

Alongside the albondigas, Eva's is currently serving a smattering of dishes, large and small.  Briney boquerones and house marinated olives, striped bass crudo, and pan con tomate are some of the other plates on the spring menu. Each dish beautifully balances salinity and freshness, coaxing you to take another sip of one of the many natural wines served at Cherry on Top.

As the night goes on, laughter bounces off of their cookbooks and personal pans lining the walls. Downtime in the kitchen paves way for shit talking about video games, past bosses, and dull cheese graters. Inevitably, the conversation drifts towards the name of the supper club. “My grandma passed away in 2020, after a long life. This project has always been dedicated towards preserving her memory, not about me.  She used to always be in the kitchen, feeding the family, friends, and anyone lucky enough to have dinner with us. I still use the lessons she taught me to this day.”  The food clearly reflects the love Eva put into her food, inspiring fresh takes on classics from Peru, Spain, and Mexico.

At the end of the night, Drew explains over a cigarette outside, “This is a residency, not a pop up.  We have time on our side for people to discover it,” he says, coolly. So if you find yourself in Bushwick, looking for a bite and a drink, stop by Cherry on Top for a glass of orange wine and crudo, or whatever’s on the menu that month.  Or don’t. I’m sure they’re going to be having fun regardless.

Matthew Pridgen is our beverage director. He maintains relationships with the wineries, spirit companies, beer distributors and others who support us. He creates relationships with those same companies we hope will support us. But for more than 20 years he worked in kitchens and dining rooms, buying wine by day, hustling around like the proverbial chicken with its head dismembered by night. You know, a regular F+B worker.

By Fernanda Varela

Pridgen has good stories. All F+B workers have good ones, but we’ll use Pridgen’s because it’s a good way to start talking about all of this. And that’s our goal: We want you to start talking.

So Pridgen is working at a restaurant in Houston about 20 years ago, during the first year of his career. He’s a server, minding his business while running around from pass to floor when he sees a fight break out between two chefs. This isn’t unusual for him or anyone working here or anywhere in F+B to see, but bookmark that point. The fight escalates with increasingly louder and more aggressive language, and things finally bubble over when one of them opts to throw one of his chef knives at the other one.

As in he throws the knife across the full kitchen, past frightened co-workers and during service. And Matthew just thinks, “Huh, that’s screwed up,” and then moves on.

Thinking back, he realizes that maybe that should’ve raised a red flag. “I just feel like after a certain amount of time in the business,” he says, “all the different things you see become … just another thing.”

Fights happen back there. Are knives thrown? Regularly? I really hope not, but I imagine you’ve seen some stuff. That’s the industry, and for years everyone shrugged that off and decided to take it because the result is you’ve served hundreds of hungry and thirsty people and they seemingly all went home happy. You made them happy. You made their day.

Meanwhile, your day featured a guy hurling a violent weapon at another guy, and you sucked it up and tried to let that go before downing a few 1:30 a.m. whiskey shots. But watching that the way we’ve watched it, processing that the way we’ve processed it, and letting it go the way we’ve been letting it go is not healthy. 

We, as in Southern Smoke Foundation, have spoken to a lot of you in the industry, and what we hear a lot is that things can’t continue this way.

In the wake of the 2018 suicide of Anthony Bourdain, we heard about friends of ours across the country also succumbing, unsure how to go on, and we all had a clear view of the issues plaguing us. That Fall, during our annual event Southern Smoke Festival, we brought together more than 30 industry titans and hoped to figure this out. 

I am Catarina Bill, the director of programs and philanthropy at Southern Smoke Foundation. I joined the organization in February 2020 as its second full-time employee. My indoctrination didn’t last long, we all know what happened in March 2020, and almost overnight our team was thrown into a nationwide relief effort to help food and beverage workers impacted financially by the COVID-19 pandemic. In three years at the Foundation, I am truly amazed at our growth. We have helped thousands of individuals get through some of the most challenging times of their lives. Now we are hoping to lead the national conversation about mental health for the industry.

Our mission is to bring help to you. Since 2020, I have been talking with universities that have psychological training clinics. I have been talking with companies, foundations, and individuals, trying like hell to show them how a donation could save a life. I have been listening to you–F+B workers in communities across America–learning how to best meet your unique needs. Our solution: Southern Smoke Foundation works with universities to provide no-cost mental health counseling to F+B workers in the states where those universities are located.

This is only a start. As we build the program, we’re realizing the scope of your needs. But we also know that we’re doing something right: We’re hearing from workers who were days from leaving the industry altogether, but now that they can get the help that they need, they’re deciding to stay put. We knew that you wanted to talk to someone about the troubles you see and experience every day, whether it’s the knife fights in the kitchen or the calls from landlords pushing you for rent payments. We knew that you’ve been working tirelessly every day, that you’ll pick up shifts to earn whatever you can to support you and your family, that you’ll work until you legitimately cannot physically work anymore. 

You love this industry. We want you to love and care for yourself. Take it from me: Few things compare to that feeling after you get things out, someone listens, and that counselor or therapist starts to give you tools to work with the stress and anxiety. You feel lighter, you feel happier. We want you to have that happiness.

Our program, which provides no-cost mental health counseling to F+B workers, is called Behind You. You know, when you’re hustling from prep station to pass, and you can’t see that someone galloping past you is trying to put out another fire … they say, “Behind you!” That’s us. We want to help put out your fires. We want to assure you that you’re seen, you’re taken care of, and you can get to where you need to be.

Behind You is currently available in California, Illinois, Louisiana, New York, and Texas. We want Behind You in every state. Tell your friends, tell people who might want to donate … honestly, just tell anyone. At the very least, someone you know probably wants to talk to someone but isn’t sure how to start. We’re the way to start talking.

We’re not telling you much that you don’t already know. Just think of us as that extra nudge on the shoulder, that coworker running past you but still acknowledging … “Hey … behind you!”  We got you. Promise.

It was one of a million simple (often hilarious) exchanges on a team that deeply cared for and respected one another. I’m sure it was made easier because we were all women. It would be rare for me to share that same level of camaraderie with a male colleague who said “nice melons.” It has happened, but it is rare, and is also the hallmark of a relationship built on respect and care. To be clear, working with women is not a panacea against abuse; women can be as awful to each other as any man. 

I’m sure by now it will come as no surprise that women make up a disproportionately low percentage of leadership and owner - ship roles in the food world—be it farming, manufacturing, or cooking. Over 50 percent of culinary school graduates are women, though only 19 percent of executive chefs are. Only 27 percent of farms are female-owned. And of the 11.1 million businesses owned by women, 99.9 percent are small businesses. These numbers are worse for BIPOC and LGBTQIA+ women. 

The food world is especially difficult for women who tend to be the primary caregivers in their families. The hours are long and physical, the pay is low, and there is rarely sick pay, let alone maternity leave. Of the December 2020 job losses in the United States brought on by the COVID-19 pandemic, 100 percent were women leaving the workforce. One. Hundred. Percent. The demands of caring for children or aging family members were reported as the number one reason why they quit their jobs. 

Beyond all of those things, think for a minute about being pregnant and working in a kitchen. When I write a job description for a cook, part of the description is that they have to be able to stand for extended periods of time and lift 50 lb [22.5 kg] (the weight of an average sack of flour). The minute a woman gets pregnant, she is told by her doctor to not stand for long periods and not lift anything over 25 lb [11 kg]. Th rough no fault of her own, she can no longer safely perform part of the job she was hired for. 

Then pile on the lack of mentorship on how to expand a brand, the lack of financial literacy in women who have been told for years that they aren’t “good at math,” and the sheer discrimination women (let alone BIPOC) face when seeking capital to start a business, and those stats don’t seem all that surprising. 

Our businesses are better with a diverse array of voices leading them. Our society is stronger when we support pregnant people of all classes as they bring life into the world and raise the next generation. I was lucky enough to work in the kitchens of gracious and kind men, but I hurt for every woman who has put a beautiful plate of food in the window and then been made to feel (at best) less than and (at worst) physically threatened. I don’t have the answers to these long-standing and pernicious issues, but I am dedicated to creating a work environment that is committed to the advancement of women so we can get to equal. My ask of you is to think about how you can do the same in big ways and in small, in your industry or in mine.

Pulp: A Practical Guide to Cooking with Fruit by Abra Berens, © 2023. Published by Chronicle Books. Photographs © EE Berger.